Square Up Stock on a Vertical Mill

by:kingtool aluminium machinery     2020-04-03
When launching many projects on a vertical milling machine, it is necessary to make the sides of the workpiece real before you start to milling seriously.
This is due to the inconsistency between the rough surface and the angle
There are enough changes to cut the material, and even the extruded Rod, if you are doing the exact work, you need to clean it up.
This Instructure will show how to get six faces of a rectangular workpiece perpendicular to each other.
The X, Y and Z sizes of the stock can be different.
My picture is nearby.
The cube shape, but this process is the same for any rectangular workpiece.
I did it at TechShop.
Material required: small flat wood tool scrap required for aluminum stock: vertical mill for processing dice mechanic square parallel marking surface (
The oil pen is fine, or use a permanent mark if you have a solvent to clean it up)
As long as it is possible, you should reduce your inventory to fairly close to the finished product before you bring it to the factory.
This will reduce the time spent on your project (
The band saw machine is definitely faster than the rolling mill that cuts Bar material by length)
And reduce wear-and-
The grinding and tools are torn.
Your goal should be to be able to use the band saw to raise the stock to a certain size so that you can make a rough cut with the mill and square each face of the stock, then make a trim (around . 001 inch)
Bring it to the right size.
After a rough cut on the band saw, none of the sides are flat and none of the sides have an angle of 90% from any adjacent faces.
Because there is no real size that can be used as a reference for creating other faces, when we are ready to cut the first face of the workpiece, we may be a little careless about the positioning of the workpiece.
Of course, we don\'t want the work to be completely the wrong angle, but it would be good enough for this to be a visual.
Select a parallel one, which will allow a large part of your workpiece to be held by the lower jaw of the vise, but also allow enough of the workpiece to reach out above the vise, this way you can process the material from the top.
Use a brush to clean up any debris from between the jaws of the vise.
Put a parallel on the mill\'s vise, leaning against the fixed jaw of the vise.
Place the workpiece at the top of the parallel and close the fitter in most cases.
When you are close, insert small wood between the workpiece and the movable jaw of the vise and close the vise firmly.
The wood will deform on the uneven edges of the workpiece, helping to prevent it from swinging between the claws of the vise.
Open the mill and lift the Workbench until the top of the workpiece touches the bottom of the end mill.
Lift up the table a few inches per thousand again and grind off all the material on the plane.
Use a climbing cut on the outside edge to help prevent burrs.
Once you face this one, double.
Check to make sure you have worn out all the band saw marks.
If not, raise the table again and repeat the process until you have a flat surface.
Close the mill and remove the workpiece from the vise.
Remove any burrs using metal files and mark the newly processed surface with the digital \"1.
We will try to process all the other faces so that they are in the right direction relative to this one, which will be our most \"real (
All other people suffer a small amount of error due to defects and misplacement in the mill.
Put the workpiece back on the parallel vise and the side \"1\" faces the fixed jaw of the vise.
Use wood scrap again between the movable jaw plate and the workpiece.
Side \"1\" flush with the lower jaw is important, so make sure it doesn\'t tilt when you close the vise.
Repeat the process orientation in the previous step.
Remove the workpiece from the vise and remove any burrs.
I marked mine with \"2.
Clean any debris parallel and put the workpiece back in the vise with the side \"1\" facing the fixed jaw of the vise and the side \"2\" facing below (
Parallel touch).
Use the wooden block between the movable jaw and the workpiece to close the vise.
Tap the top of the workpiece with a mallet to make it firmly against the parallel position.
You will want to do this when the machining face of the workpiece is down.
Keep in mind that the front edge of the mold is not supported below, so just tap the back half.
The mold should be placed flush with the surface of the fixed Chin and the top of the parallel line.
Smooth the top of the workpiece.
Remove the workpiece from the vise and remove any burrs.
I marked it as \"3.
Clear any debris from between the lower jaw of the vise.
Put the second parallel into the vise and lean against the movable jaw.
Place the workpiece in a vise with 1 face down (
Touch similarities)
, \"2\" on the upper side of the fixed lower jaw of the vise, and \"3\" on the upper side of the movable lower jaw \".
Close the tiger claw of the vise, tap the top of the workpiece with a mallet, and firmly lean it against two parallel lines.
Process the surface of the workpiece.
Remove the workpiece and remove any burrs.
I have marked it as the \"4\" side.
Brush any pieces from between the jaws of the vise.
Place the workpiece of the side \"1\" on the fixed jaw of the vise and the side \"2\" on the left side.
Use a square mechanic to align the workpiece so that the side 2 is perpendicular to the top of the vise fixing claw.
In the photo, the square points up, but you get more surface contact if the square points down to the vise (
Assuming it\'s short enough, no bottomIn the vise).
Hold the workpiece at 90 degrees with a square to clamp the vise.
Flatten your face.
Remove the workpiece from the vise and remove any burrs.
I marked mine with \"5.
Remove any debris from the lower jaw of the vise.
Clamping the workpiece onto the vise, the fixed surface of the vise has a side \"1\" and a side \"5\" face down.
Fix the workpiece using a mallet.
Flatten your face.
You sometimes want to use the \"z\" depth of the final cut as the starting point for the next step in the machining project.
If so, set the \"z\" axis indicator dial to zero to keep the position in place.
Remove the mold from the vise and remove any burrs.
You now have a precision milling piece with a 90 degree angle between surfaces.
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