making vise clamps on the milling machine

by:kingtool aluminium machinery     2020-03-23
This is a build log to make a simple fixture for fixing the milling vise on the milling table.
I am a novice mechanic so there may be some errors here and there.
The factory is a X2 \"Mini factory\" manufactured by Sieg and imported and sold in the United States through Port Freight, Grizzlies, etc.
Milling vise is a small screw-free tool manufacturer with clamping slots, which is sold by Shars small machine store. com, etc.
The bottom surface of the vise slot is about 0.
More than 595 inch, the top surface of the clamping slot is about 0.
300 inch above the bottom surface.
I am making clips with some scrap iron. The stock is 0. 25 inch thick.
Each side is about 2 inch long (
From the outer corner of the angle to the end of the \"leg).
The extra thing I didn\'t do was T-
Nut, flange nut, about 2 inch-3/816 threaded rod.
I put a knife.
Wheels on my Wood
Cut the composite herringbone saw and cut the angle iron on it.
It cuts well, but it gets hot enough to melt the plastic part of the saw table. . . .
I hope no one noticed that it made me feel a bit stupid.
Anyway, I cut a piece about 1 inch wide from the length of the horn.
The exact size is not important.
Then I cut off part of a piece of \"leg\" which will be the foot of the clip (
It stands on the table of the mill).
I took a lesson from plastic.
This cut was made with a hacksaw.
I set the angle iron in the milling vise and sharpen the long cutting very flat (
& Although this dimension is not very important, it is still a little big).
The picture shows the settings for milling two long edges.
Round end of angle-
Iron mounted in horizontal V-
Groove on the jaws of the vise.
I\'m sticking out about 1/4 of the vise claws on the edge of the mill.
This setting is very secure.
I looked at the workpiece, found the most prominent part, and then gently touched the tool at that time.
Then I started cutting in the Y direction, front and back, so each cut was done in the traditional milling mode (
I keep my distance from climbing and milling now).
Take off about 0 per pass.
Any part of the workpiece has a material sticking out of 010 inch.
Eventually it cuts along the entire surface of the workpiece, and then I make a 0.
005 inch complete the cut and call it done.
I\'m using 3/4 4-
Rotate the groove milling tool at a speed of about 800 rpm.
The feed speed is about 5 to 7 ipm. Depth of cut (of each cut)was about 0. 010 inch.
I spray WD occasionally.
40 on the tool and workpiece at the time of cutting.
In order to grind the other side, I turned the workpiece upside down (
As shown in the second picture).
Location of V-
The groove of the lower jaw of the vise and the length of the foot (
Short leg of horn)
To make it all possible.
If the size is not calculated, I could have kept the workpiece at the \"foot-
\"Position up\" and slide the workpiece to the other side of the jaw.
Next, I made the \"foot\" of the clip, which is the part placed on the milling table.
The operation cleaned the Hacksaw operation and determined the height of the fixture.
This may be the most important dimension, but there is some space for garbage even here.
I clamp the \"long leg\" of the workpiece in the vise, carefully clamping the straight line part of the angle iron, not close to the corner where the thickness changes.
I place the fixture near the center of the accessory to keep the clamping force balanced and to avoid twisting the movable jaw.
The desired length of the foot (According to drawings)is 0. 875 inch.
I know that the feet I cut with a hacksaw are longer than those I cut with a hacksaw, so there is some spare stock available at the end of the foot.
First of all, I use the cutter to skim the bottom of the foot, just like I have a square long edge in step 3 (
Except along X and not along Y).
I cut from the left side of the workpiece to the right to keep the regular milling.
Once it is flat along the entire bottom of the foot, I measured the height of the foot with a clamp (
I wipe the reference surface with a rag so the pieces don\'t throw away the reading).
This measurement tells me how much material I have to remove.
I took it off at 0.
010 inch cut until I\'m around 0.
020, then I measure again and do a shallow cut until I am within 0.
005 inch, then I said it.
Here is the order of all three faces, and all the edges of these faces are smooth.
Now everything is over except slotting.
This is how I set it up for slotting.
It would be nice to have the workpiece roughly concentrated on the chin, as it even creates clamping pressure rather than moving the twisting force on the chin.
I wanted the slot in the middle of the clip, so I measured the final actual width of the clip, positioned the edge, and positioned the spindle in the center of the x-axis of the clip.
Lock xgibs here and we will be moving around Y and Z for a while.
Touch the \"inside\" of the foot \".
Remember to compensate for the radius of the edge finder.
The drill bit is easier to sharp than milling the cutter, so I drilled a lot of holes to squeeze out most of the metal.
I started a little bit (
About 1/4)
Then open a pilot hole of 3/8.
I know the picture shows 0.
500 inch slot, but 3/8 plus a little.
When I finished, there were three 3/8 holes in the middle of the clip, and their sides were just in contact.
Next, I used a 3/8 milling machine to turn a row of holes into an actual slot.
With the running of the spindle, I lowered (center-cutting)
Cut the knife down into the existing hole at one end of the slot, and then move it into the hole at the other end.
I walked back and forth in the slot and fell about 0.
Each pass is about 050 inch until I pass all the way.
Then I widened the slot about 0.
About 050, by moving the milling tool in the form of a spiral, cutting the entire wall of the groove, the cutting depth is about 0. 010 inch.
I cut the spiral clockwise to make sure I always mill it regularly. (
Note: for the picture in this step, I showed a clip where I tried a shorter slot with only two holes in the frontdrilled.
While I think I prefer the longer location, it works fine. )
I got some 3/8
Tpi rebar from ye olde hardware store.
It\'s cheap. There are three pies.
I cut it into length with a hacksaw and cleaned the cutting edge with a file. It looks good!
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